Just like Grandma used to make? Sadly, in Britain we may never know | Mina Holland

It’s so easy now to fill up on food from around the world. But we’re losing touch with the recipes that once defined us

Kedgeree on arrival, coronation chicken at lunch, rock buns with tea, dal for supper. Such is the menu, the paean to my granny’s cooking, that I planned with my cousins a couple of weeks ago. There are 27 years between the oldest and the youngest of her grandchildren, but to all of us these are her timeless dishes, dated only by the fact that we haven’t had them done quite right since she died. Granny’s cooking has assumed a kind of mythical status.

Related: Yotam Ottolenghi’s revamped British classic recipes

Making food from scratch often seems to be a luxury. How ironic, given the roots of so much cooking lie in thrift

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