‘Let’s hope it never changes’: L’Escargot, London – review | Jay Rayner

Snails, chandeliers, and suited waiters… this isn’t just a French restaurant, it’s a Soho institution

L’Escargot, 48 Greek Street, London W1D 4EF (020 7439 7474). Meal for two, including drinks and service, £100 to £140

L’Escargot is your stylish auntie, the one who knows how to grow old gracefully; who had that green velvet halterneck from Biba back in the day but knew when to stop wearing it. Has she surrendered to the passage of time? Hell no. She just knows exactly which version of herself to be. L’Escargot, now in its 91st year, is the same. It has been many things over the years. It has been bang on trend and it has been a survivor and now, through an acute understanding of the essentials, it is the best kind of institution. I can think of nowhere better by which to celebrate the launch of our new magazine. If you’re reading online, go pick up a print edition. It’s beautiful. Think fine old wine in new bottles. Which L’Escargot also knows a bit about, as it happens. Oh, and it does snails, obviously. I bloody love a snail.

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Nigel Slater’s haggis recipes

As stuffing or seasoning, the Scottish delicacy is a beautiful thing

Early morning in a Glasgow hotel and I seem to have won the breakfast lottery. The first meal of the day brings not only pork sausages bursting at the seams, but black pudding and a slice of haggis, too. There is much to like about haggis: the coarse, friable texture and generous seasoning; its happy partnership with mashed root vegetables; and the intelligence of a recipe that makes something from nothing. A haggis is a thing of beauty, too, especially after roasting when the bulging parcel, the girth of an ostrich’s egg, is taken from the oven, singing quietly to itself, glistening from a regular basting with butter.

Taken from the oven the haggis sings quietly to itself, glistening from a regular basting with butter

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Wines and whisky for Burns Night | David Williams

Haggis, neeps and tatties don’t taste the same without a wee dram to toast Scotland’s most famous poet

Les Calèches de Lanessan, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, France 2011 (from £16.99, T Wright Wine; Rodney Fletcher Vintners; Wood Winters) What to drink on Burns Night, an evening that offers a welcome fizzle of festivity in the January murk, even for Sassanachs? Whisky, of course, and you can find a dram or two below. For drinking with the haggis, however, another drink, one with which the Scots have strong historical links, makes an equally satisfying match. The wines of Bordeaux have had favoured status north of the border since the Auld Alliance between Scotland and France began in 1295, with Scots merchants enjoying the pick of the best barrels over their English rivals. Clarets to consider for this year’s celebration on Thursday include the mellow, cedary savouriness of Les Calèches de Lanessan, or the youthfully exuberant crunchiness of Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Claret 2015 (£7).

Champagne Lanson Extra Age Brut, France NV (from £45, Marks & Spencer; Laithwaites) Most restaurants and hotels putting on Burns suppers will offer sparkling wine as a toasting alternative for those who don’t have the taste – or constitution – for whisky. If you’re celebrating at home, and money is not too much of an object, Veuve Clicquot Extra Old Extra Brut NV (from £67.50, Harrods, Champagne Direct) is an outstandingly graceful, filigree blend of older wines from a producer with a slightly tangential Scottish link: its oldest existing bottle (an 1893 vintage) was found locked in a cupboard in a castle on the Isle of Mull a decade ago. In a similar style, Lanson’s Extra Age Brut blends three fine vintages for invigorating creamy elegance, while Aldi Exquisite Crémant de Jura, France (£7.99) is a lipsmacking bargain fizz.

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Bondi Harvest’s beetroot lentil burger

The clean-living chefs’ new cookbook is filled with healthy and delicious versions of family-friendly recipes

Hearty and packed with protein, this vegetarian beetroot and lentil burger is a healthy wholefood feast all wrapped up in a bun for easy two-handed eating. Even the vegetarian sceptics will be coming back for more of this little beauty.

Related: Bondi Harvest’s Mexican salsa verde eggs recipe

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Raw deal: sushi-loving California man discovers 5ft 6in tapeworm

Fresno doctor says of ‘giant’ parasite patient wrapped round toilet roll: ‘Apparently it was still wriggling when he put it in the bag’

A California man’s daily sushi habit ended in a trip to hospital with a stomach-churning item to show doctors: a 5ft tapeworm that “wiggled” out of his body.

Fresno emergency department doctor Kenny Banh told the Guardian he was skeptical when the man walked in to his hospital, asking for treatment for a worm.

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Fashion fit to eat – in pictures

Fresh watermelon skirts, parsley earrings, and dresses made from toast: using her background in fashion design, San Francisco-based artist Gretchen Röehrs, 28, creates stylish looks out of everyday foods. The project began when she taunted some snowed-in friends on the US east coast with colourful images of Californian fruit and vegetables. Using Japanese brush pens, she draws around each object to summon up vibrant, lively creations. “I find that women reflect the curves and lines in nature,” she says. “Fashion is all about emphasising those lines, so organic shapes make for the perfect faux outfits.” However, not all foods can be turned into high fashion. “French fries, despite being so delicious, just don’t photograph very well.”

Edible Ensembles: A Fashion Feast for the Eyes (Rizzoli, £18.95) is published on 13 February

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